Interview with Federico Desimoni, Director, Consorzio Tutela Aceto Balsamico di Modena

27 Oct Interview with Federico Desimoni, Director, Consorzio Tutela Aceto Balsamico di Modena

How does the consortium protect and promote Aceto Balsamico Modena’s heritage while staying relevant in today’s global market?

The main goal of the consortium is to protect and promote Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. Over 90% of our production is exported, with more than 50% going outside Europe — the US alone accounts for nearly 25 million liters, about 30% of our total. Because our market is global, we must defend the product both in Italy and abroad. This is not easy: there is no unified international legislation, so we work with law firms in Italy, Europe and the US to fight fraud and counterfeits.

Since our founding in 1993, our priority has always been the consumer. Protecting the product means protecting people from misleading imitations. That is why our strategy combines legal action and clear communication to help consumers recognize authentic Balsamic Vinegar from Modena — unique and tied to tradition since 1747. We register and defend trademarks and oppose any attempts to imitate us. Above all, we focus on education and promotion, working with partners worldwide, especially in Europe and the U.S., to ensure people know and value the real thing. We organize events and take part in trade shows to give consumers a direct experience of our product. For example, at the recent Fancy Food Show, we invited people to taste both fake and authentic balsamic vinegar so they could see the difference for themselves — and they always chose the real one.

Our mission is to help consumers avoid being misled by imitations. By doing this, we also protect our producers and the tradition behind our product. Our identity is deeply rooted in our territory’s history, so seeing others misuse it is hard to accept.

With the US, Asia and Europe as key markets, especially the US accounting for 30% of exports, what are your current export priorities? Is the US still your main focus?

The US is and will remain our top priority and main market. We see great potential to keep growing there because we offer something unique that cannot be produced locally — it requires specific know-how and natural conditions found only in Modena. Barriers like tariffs hurt both sides: they damage our producers and deprive American consumers and businesses of an authentic product. We need fair solutions that protect this win-win trade. At the same time, we are exploring new markets, especially in Asia, which will grow over the next 10–15 years. However, expanding globally doesn’t mean shifting focus — the US will always be a key market for us.

How many jobs does the consortium currently create and how many do you expect to create as production grows?

We currently produce about 100 million liters a year, supporting around 30,000 jobs across the entire supply chain — from grape growing to production. While we can’t multiply grapes endlessly, there is still room to grow and any increase in production means more jobs and opportunities for local communities. This work helps keep families rooted in their home regions and preserves our heritage, not just through the product but also through the communities behind it. For us Italians, this connection to our land and families is a true value. Our industry helps people build good lives at home.

Today, we have producers and investors from across Europe and beyond who come to Modena to be part of the Aceto Balsamico Modena business. The door is always open — anyone can start or buy a company here. What makes this unique is that only Modena can produce true Aceto Balsamico di Modena, thanks to European protections. This ‘monopoly of origin’ sets us apart from other industries and is a key point for investors. In the US, the reputation of Italian food keeps growing. Our PDO and PGI products are not just Italian food — they have a special identity and heritage, which makes them even more valuable for business.

How does the Consortium address the growing demand for sustainable production and packaging?

We have been working on sustainability for several years through the Made Green in Italy system, which certifies our environmental standards. Our assessments show that our production is already sustainable, but we aim to keep improving. Now we are focusing more on the other pillars: good governance and social sustainability. We ensure proper certification and market controls to protect consumers and maintain trust — a key part of European sustainability goals.

Socially, we support local communities by creating stable jobs and a good work-life balance. Economically, we want every link in the chain, from grape growers to producers, to earn fair income. This is how we protect our product, people and territory for the future. We also want to keep our product affordable for consumers. That is why tariffs are a problem: they raise costs and make it harder to invest in sustainability. If we truly support sustainability, we must recognize that trade barriers can undermine it. Despite challenges like tariffs, rising energy and transport costs and global tensions, we stay committed to protecting consumers, local communities and our sustainability goals. It is not easy, but these values remain at the heart of our work.

How is the consortium innovating through digital tools, education or product development?

We can’t change a product with a thousand-year-old tradition, but we keep finding new ways to enjoy it. We are promoting pairings that go beyond the usual — like using Aceto Balsamico di Modena with ice cream, in cocktails or even as a digestif. At the Fancy Food Show in the US, we partnered with Gelato by Patrizia to showcase balsamic with gelato, which drew great interest. We also presented cocktails, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic, using balsamic to replace or complement spirits.

Innovation for us means creating new ways to use a timeless product. We are finishing a short film called Modena Balsamic Genius to explain why this product comes from Modena and what makes the city special. It is a cultural, not commercial, film using dance and local cuisine to tell the story, with Modena itself as the main ‘actor.’ The five-minute film, along with a 90-second version, will be part of a roadshow starting in October across the US, Canada and key European cities, supported by a digital campaign on YouTube and our website. We aim to elevate understanding from simple description to cultural appreciation.

In March 2025, the Consortium held its first International Conference on Vinegar Ageing in Modena. What were the key takeaways?

The conference focused on Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena PDO (Protected Designation of Origin). This traditional aging takes at least 12 years, often up to 25, involving a carefully managed process. Until now, we understood how to do it but didn’t know what happened inside the barrels. Scientists are now studying the chemical changes during aging, uncovering the mystery of the PDO production. This research will help improve production and deepen our knowledge of this unique product.

What is your final message?

Look up ‘authenticity’ in the dictionary and ask yourself, ‘do I want to be authentic’? Everyone can decide, but I believe most will choose to be authentic and buy authentic products.